FAGATELE BAY, AMERICAN SAMOA » It is what the coves of Oahu must have resembled a century ago: a place teeming with rich, healthy, diverse marine life, where the sea floor remains visible 60 feet down.Hokule‘a and Hikianalia voyaging canoe crews ventured to the pristine, federally protected waters of Fagatele earlier this week mainly because the winds didn't let them sail to a marine preserve in the Phoenix Islands, several hundred miles to the north, as planned.But their \plan B\ expedition in American Samoa turned out surprisingly well. The crews discovered a local sanctuary system that's tried in recent years to better connect with the village communities, and whose approach is very much in tune with the Malama Honua \Care for the Earth\ worldwide voyage.\They seem to be incorporating local culture